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Food pairing

Beer with hot pot

Ingredients cooked at the table in a simmering broth, which in the Sichuan version is loaded with chilli and numbing pepper.

The broth is the dish. A Sichuan hot pot broth is a layer of chilli oil over stock with dried chillies and Sichuan pepper, and everything cooked in it carries that out — so the heat accumulates over a long meal rather than arriving once.

Accumulation is the thing to design around. Capsaicin builds, alcohol and bitterness both amplify it, and the meal lasts an hour. A low-strength, low-bitterness, very cold beer is not a lack of ambition here; it is the only thing that survives to the end of the table.

Hot pot narrows the field sharply, and one answer stands clear of the rest. Most beer falls down on at least one thing this dish demands. The attribute doing most of the work is chilli heat.

What to drink

  • Czech pale lager — classic pairing

    The distinction the engine cannot see is time. A hot pot is eaten for an hour and capsaicin accumulates, so a beer that suits the first bowl can be unbearable by the fourth. Low strength, low bitterness and served very cold is the only thing that survives to the end of the table.

    • Cleanse

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

  • Tropical stout — outstanding

    Deep malt character matches the savoury weight of the dish instead of sitting apart from it.

    • Complement
    • Contrast
    • Cleanse
    • Bridge
  • Weizenbock — outstanding

    Peppery and clove-like notes from the yeast pick up the warm spicing in the dish — the same aromatic family on both sides.

    • Bridge
    • Contrast
    • Complement
    • Cleanse

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

  • American porter — strong

    Deep malt character matches the savoury weight of the dish instead of sitting apart from it.

    • Complement
    • Contrast
    • Cleanse

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

  • Rauchbier — strong

    Gentle sweetness and modest strength take the edge off the chilli rather than sharpening it.

    • Contrast
    • Complement
    • Bridge
    • Cleanse

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

  • Czech dark lager — strong

    Gentle sweetness and modest strength take the edge off the chilli rather than sharpening it.

    • Contrast
    • Complement
    • Cleanse

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

  • Bock — strong

    Deep malt character matches the savoury weight of the dish instead of sitting apart from it.

    • Complement
    • Contrast

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

  • Old ale — strong

    Deep malt character matches the savoury weight of the dish instead of sitting apart from it.

    • Complement
    • Contrast
    • Bridge

    Caution: Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.

What not to drink

  • Imperial stout A single mouthful is not the unit here. Judge the pairing at the end of the meal, not the beginning.
  • American barley wine Capsaicin is an irritant rather than a flavour, and alcohol and hop bitterness both intensify it. A sweeter, lower-strength beer will do more for the heat.
  • Fruit lambic Expect the beer to refresh rather than to stand up to the food.