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Beer and law

Licensing and protected names

Where beer may be sold, by whom, and what it may be called are three separate legal questions, and each has left visible marks on what is brewed and where.

Why this matters to beer

Licensing decides the shape of the retail trade, and the retail trade decides what gets brewed. The British tied house narrowed choice for a century; American post-Prohibition licensing made brewpubs illegal for fifty years. Protected names, meanwhile, are the only thing stopping a style becoming a generic word — which is what happened to pilsner.

Licensing shapes the trade

Almost every country requires a licence to sell alcohol, and the conditions attached are where the interesting differences lie: who may hold one, what hours it permits, whether the premises must serve food, whether production and retail may be combined.

That last one is the most consequential for beer. American licensing after Prohibition separated producers, wholesalers and retailers into three tiers, which made brewing and selling on the same premises illegal — so brewpubs required separate state-by-state legalisation from the 1980s. A structural rule about licences held back a whole category of business for half a century.

British licensing went the other way and permitted brewers to own pubs, which produced the tied house: a brewery-owned outlet obliged to sell that brewery's beer. That single arrangement is the largest reason British beer choice narrowed through the twentieth century, and unwinding it in 1989 reshaped the trade again.

Protected names, and what they actually protect

A small number of beer names carry genuine legal protection tying them to a place. Kölsch is the clearest: a 1986 agreement among Cologne brewers, given wider legal effect by registration in the EU geographical indications register in 1997. Münchner Bier has been a protected geographical indication since 1998, held by the six breweries operating within the Munich city limits.

These protect origin rather than quality. A protected designation says a beer was made in a particular place to a particular specification; it does not say it is good, and it does not stop anyone brewing an identical beer elsewhere under a different name — which is why "Kölsch-style" is a legitimate label outside Cologne.

The counter-example is pilsner, which escaped. The name spread so fast after 1842 that it became generic in most markets, and the original brewery adopted "Prazdroj" — original source — precisely because it could not stop the copying. That is what protection prevents, and pilsner shows what happens without it.

Legal protection is not the only kind

A good deal of what looks like protection is customary or contractual rather than statutory. The Trappist designation is controlled by a private association and enforced through trademark rather than by a food-origin law. CAMRA's definition of real ale has no legal force at all and is nonetheless the operative definition in British practice.

BeerHQ is careful to say which is which, because the difference matters. A statutory geographical indication is enforceable by a regulator; a private mark is enforceable only by its owner; a campaigning definition is enforceable by nobody and may still be the one everyone uses.

The legal position

Every statement below names the jurisdictions it applies to and the date BeerHQ last checked it. A legal claim without a jurisdiction is not a simplified claim — it is a false one, and alcohol law differs more between countries than almost any other kind.

What people get wrong

A protected designation means the beer is high quality.

It certifies origin and specification, not merit. A protected name tells you where a beer was made and to what rules; it makes no claim about how good it is, and excellent beer of the same type is made elsewhere under other names.

Questions

Why can only some breweries call their beer Kölsch?

Because it is a protected designation. The 1986 Kölsch-Konvention restricted the name among Cologne brewers, and EU registration in 1997 gave that legal reach. Beer brewed to the same specification elsewhere is legitimately sold as "Kölsch-style" — the protection covers origin, not recipe.

Where this plays out

Read next

Connected

What this is about: Tied house · Free house · Brewpub · Kölsch

Places: Cologne · Munich

History: Temperance, war and prohibition · Consolidation and revival

All beer culture

Last reviewed 2026-08-29.